FORT MYERS, Fla. (AP) - As Black History Month wraps up, so does a period of reflection on the many legendary people who’ve helped advance equal rights in this country.
But inequality still exists - especially in restaurants.
Of the close to 49,000 restaurant companies that received Paycheck Protection Program loans of $150,000 or more, only 130 went to restaurants with owners listed as Black, per a July analysis from Restaurant Business. According to CNBC, 41% of Black-owned businesses had shuttered as of October, compared to 17% of those with white owners.
Data from The Brookings Institution’s Hamilton Project, released in 2015, showed restaurants owned by people of color are more than three times as likely to be denied loans compared to white-owned restaurants.
These nationwide trends have been reflected locally.
Through interviews with more than a dozen Black restaurant owners from across Southwest Florida last year, a common theme emerged: They’re often on their own.
“You see, proper support for Black businesses and minorities does not exist, so it was important for us to be in the marketplace to create that support,” said Adenike Johnson, owner of Fibrre in San Carlos Park. “Growing Fibrre has been tough, with no tangible help from the small business associations … I’ve had to figure out what to do on my own to start, structure and run a business.”
Michelle Pope, owner of Chelle’s Special Touch in Fort Myers, echoed that sentiment: “It’s hard. It’s very hard to have a successful business in Dunbar. It really is. We don’t put money into this community, not even from within the community.”
As Black History Month concludes, it’s important to remember the need for equity and a level playing field. While a single meal cannot effect sweeping change, it’s a start.
Here’s a look at Black-owned restaurants in Lee and Collier counties, starting with a few personal favorites.
BEACH BROTHERS BBQ
I once had pit master Stan Peoples’ brisket moments after it emerged from his smoker. I count it among the top brisket experiences of my life. The crusty bark, the rosy pink smoke ring, the juicy meat - every bite glorious. Stan and his wife closed their brick-and-mortar shop in Cape Coral in late 2018 and transitioned to a food truck.
CHELLE’S SPECIAL TOUCH
Chef-owner Michelle Pope won me over with a Philly cheesesteak ages ago, back when she based her operation out of a candy-pink food truck. She’s grown and so has her menu. Chelle’s took over the former Po’Boys space on Work Drive in Fort Myers in late 2018. It is currently open for grab-and-go takeout of Pope’s pasta dishes, her Cajun-fried turkey wings, beef stew, mahi, crab-stuffed salmon and much more.
DEEP DOWN SOUTH BBQ
A Marine Corps veteran, this food trailer’s chef-owner, Albert Houston, served in Lebanon and fought in Operation Desert Storm. That’s where he got his first taste of culinary life, which led to his studies at Johnson & Wales in South Carolina and North Miami. Deep Down South has been a local staple since 2005. I love it for its pulled pork, garlic crabs and rib tips. And then there’s the garlic potatoes, the wings, the banana pudding. Chef Houston and his team have a world of experience behind them.
FIBRRE
Adenike and Curtis Johnson opened this plant-focused concept in 2013. Back then it was call Cajuol and it was tucked away on a Lehigh Acres side street. The concept moved to Fort Myers for a stint. It now operates out of the LA Fitness at Gulf Coast Town Center. Why do I know all this? Because I’ve followed the Johnsons every step of the way. Adenike crafts her burger patties from beets and quinoa, from black beans and corn, chickpeas and herbs. She folds them into wraps and layers them in rainbow-hued salads. There are fresh-pressed juices and smoothies and all the foods that taste as good as they make you feel.
THE HIGH LIFE EATERY
Chakita Taylor and Billy Petit opened The High Life in June, in the thick of the pandemic. It proved to be the perfect time to launch a takeout-only restaurant focused on comfort foods. Think mac and cheese, banana pudding, all-day breakfast and the kind of thick, drip-down-your-arm burgers that are best eaten in the privacy of your own home.
Chakita Taylor and Billy Petit opened The High Life Eatery in Fort Myers in June.
HYDE N CHIC
Chef Andy Hyde opened this, his first restaurant, in late 2019, and I’m sad to say I’ve still not been. All these months later, I remain eager to see what this uber-talented chef is up to at this little place. Having sampled Chef Hyde’s catering work at various events, I know his knack for flavor combinations is astounding, as is his eye for texture and detail.
IRIE-I
For 20-plus years Chef Colin Gregg cooked chain food. He worked his way up from line cook to executive chef at restaurants such as TGI Fridays and Carrabba’s. Then, in 2017, he left that world behind and opened a place of his own. At Irie-I, Gregg has returned to his Jamaican roots with jerk chicken, curry goat, brown-stew chicken and so much more, all of it handmade.
JONESEZ BBQ
A trip to one of Jonesez trucks isn’t complete without a rib or 12. These are thick, meaty spare ribs, not those wimpy baby backs. They’re the kind of ribs where, when you take a bite, a perfect crescent of meat comes off, no more, no less. Those ribs aren’t complete without Jonesez’ sides. Vickie Jones makes some of the best macaroni and cheese in town. Her green beans are excellent, same for her slaw, her potato salad, her - everything. Jonesez has been a fixture of this community since 2009. Anyone who’s eaten there knows why.
LABADIE
When I’m craving griot, tasso beef or pork ragout, Labadie is there for me. This Haitian restaurant moved last year to a quiet back section of the Carrell Corners shops in Fort Myers. Don’t let the ceiling tiles and simple tables deter you. Labadie’s portions are huge, its prices low, its flavors deep, nuanced and soulful.
M&A CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT
M&A’s Facebook page makes my mouth water: the jerk chicken coming off the grill; the glossy oxtails; the beef patties and puffy coco bread. I owe this Cape Coral place a visit, and it’s one I am looking forward to so very much.
MCCARTER’S BBQ
One thing I know about Mr. McCarter: He hates press. So, I’m going to hand this one off to our own Amy Bennett Williams, who managed to get him to talk in 2018:
“I don’t do any publicity. Don’t want it. People have come by, sure; TV people have come with cameras, but I tell ’em I have all the publicity I need. That’s why I don’t even have a sign - it’d just cost me money,” Willie McCarter said, tucking in a few wax paper-wrapped slices of white bread and a handful of napkins into a bag along with the heavy, foil-swaddled package of ribs.
“I do just fine.”
We high-tailed it to Shady Oaks Park, tumbled out of the car and hastily set up at a picnic table. One mouthful was all it took to know: These were the best ribs I’d tasted in a long time - maybe ever.
SPICE CARIBBEAN BAR & GRILL
Brown-stew chicken with rice and peas and coco bread from Spice Caribbean in Fort Myers.
This building has been a bastion for Jamaican coco bread, patties and curries for years. But Spice, which opened in 2016, may be its best incarnation yet. Spice’s staff serve everything in takeout containers, whether or not you’re taking it out. They load those boxes to their breaking points, till they sag under the weight of all that food, requiring a second hand for surety.
SWEET DRIPS
Growing up in Naples, JoDora Pender always wanted her own ice cream truck. Now she has something even better. Sweet Drips offers fried-to-order doughnuts, Philly-style water ices, sourdough pretzels, cheesesteaks and so much more. The truck is available for catering and private events.
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