OPINION:
Sugar skulls, skeletons, marigolds to attract the souls of the dead, sweet breads made in the shape of skulls, picnics on gravestones, and altars to the dead may seem strange rituals, but they are part of the joyful Mexican celebration of the Dia de los Muertes (the Day of the Dead). The celebration starts at midnight October 31 (November 1 is called the Day of the Little Angels), honoring children who have died. Adults are celebrated on November 2 when the dead are awakened from eternal sleep to join their loved ones in family celebrations.
The origin of the Dia de los Muertos dates back almost 3000 years to an ancient pre-Columbian festival, dedicated to the goddess Mictecacihuatl, “the Lady of the Dead,” held in the ninth month of the Aztec calendar. Sculls kept as trophies would be displayed during rituals honoring the lives of ancestors.
With the coming of the Spanish conquistadores in the 16th century, the Catholic holy days of All Saints (November 1) and All Souls (November 2) were combined with the Aztec festival, resulting in today’s Dia de los Muertos. The main symbol of the festival remains the skull, no longer hand crafted of sugar, which was plentiful in the New World, but now commercially made.
In the past few years, Mexican restaurants have flourished in the Washington area. Many are small neighborhood establishments, specializing in traditional dishes such as tacos, enchiladas, tortas (sandwiches) and a variety of main dishes. Others specialize in regional Mexican cuisine.
Taqueria Habanero (3710 14th Street,NW, in Petworth) specializes in Puebla-style dishes such as tinga poblana (shredded chicken and sausage); El Chucho (3313 11th Street,NW, in Columbia Heights) offers elotes callejeros (street corn) with aioli, cheese and cilantro; Espita Mezcaluna (1250 9th Street,NW, in Shaw) turns to Oaxacan flavors and techniques rather than authentic Oaxacan dishes.
Mezcalero Cocina Mexicana (3714 14th Street,NW), the sister restaurant of El Sol (1227 11th Street,NW) is a simple place decorated with a black-and-white mural on one wall and a colorful painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe on the other. Chef/owner Alfredo Solis draws inspiration from his home town of Mexico City for tacos on house-made tortillas, ceviches, tortas, stews and moles.
The food is excellent, spicier than is usual for Mexican cuisine, and prices are reasonable. A house specially of stuffed pepper (chile relleno) is a succulent roasted cheese or meat poblano pepper with Oaxaca cheese, salsa, ranchero, and sour cream. Street tacos are tasty, in particular the pastor, a combination of marinated pork with pineapple, onions and cilantro. Other tacos have fillings of octopus, tongue, slowly braised pork skin (cueritos), spicy sausage, as well as more conventional fillings.
Mezcalero’s menu includes, enchiladas, burritos, huaraches (flatbreads), stews of pork and chicken moles, a variety of ceviches, and chilaquiles (Mexican casseroles). The bar offers a wide selection of tequilas and mezcal.
Washington has several restaurants offering a more contemporary version of Mexican cuisine. The most recent is Mayahuel (2609 24th Street,NW) in Woodley Park, a modern Mexican restaurant named for the Aztec goddess of the maguey (agave) plant and protector of fertility.
Another newcomer is Buena Vida (8407 Ramsey Drive, Silver Spring), a light-filled restaurant offering casual, contemporary versions of Mexican dishes, with a traditional approach to cooking techniques from all of Mexico. The lower floor is a taqueria; upstairs is the main dining room offering a variety of dishes, including a $35 all-you-can-order small plates brunch.
The guacamole, served with house-made chips, is outstanding, creamy, slightly spicy, chunky. A brunch dish of huevos rancheros is a fine combination of eggs, salsa, black bean puree, avocado, cheese and pico de gallo. Equally good is the breakfast tostada of fried eggs, black beans, cream, cotija cheese, lettuce, and garlic.
The chef’s signature dishes include meatballs, sopes of braised pork, cabbage, cream and cilantro; a potato and cheese flauta with cabbage slaw; crispy fried chicken; shrimp and house-made chorizo grits; and a crispy pork chop “Milanese” (breaded) with tomato, avocado and mayonnaise. Tacos and tortas — including an egg and avocado BLT — are other menu items. Not to be missed are the Mexican chocolate cupcakes and the delicious churros with caramel sauce.
To celebrate the Day of the Dead, Buena Vida is preparing three special cocktails available from October 29 through November 2: el alegrije (tequila, mezcal, blackberries and grapefruit cordial; el beso del diablo (kiss of the devil) (tequila blanco, agave syrup, lime and sour mix); la llorona (woman’s ghost) (tequila, hibiscus syrup and lime juice).
Non-traditional restaurants serving classic dishes include Richard Sandoval’s El Centro D.F. (1218 Wisconsin Avenue,NW and 1819 14th Street,NW) specializing in an extensive collection of mezcals and tequilas; MXDC (600 14th Street,NW) where corn pasta, soy and hoisin marinades, and grilled romaine are added to traditional dishes; and Oyamel (401 7th Street,NW) which prepares tacos of shredded goat, sauteed grasshoppers or seared pork belly as well as classic combinations. Oyamel offers a $20 lunch special of two small plates and a taco. The restaurant celebrates the dead and honors the living at the “Dia de los Muertos” Festival Cocktail Dinner on October 30, and 3 Stars Dinner paired with beer from 3 Stars Brewing Company on November 1, both are priced at $75 and include five course menus.
• Corinna Lothar is a Washington writer, critic and frequent contributor to The Times.
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