When I think of Bordeaux, an image of tasty grapes come to mind. This is the place of esteemed vineyards, premier crus and coveted domaines such as Chateau Latour, Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Chateau Margaux. On a recent visit I discovered that there’s more to Bordeaux than Bordeaux. In addition to wine tours, you’ll find gastronomic cuisine, medieval castles, chateaux and villages, mystical sites, prehistoric cave art and fantastical palace retreats where you can spa, eat soufflés and lose weight.
Bordeaux – Petit Paris
The area, located in the southwest corner of France, takes its name from the port city of Bordeaux, which is also the capital of the historic region of Aquitaine. A major revamp in 2007 restored the neoclassical architecture of this crescent-shaped town on the banks of the Garonne River and transformed it into a ’Little Paris’ that has been designated a Unesco World Heritage Site. In this strollable city l found charming 18th century buildings, historic monuments, cobbled passageways, quays overlooking the thriving waterfront, Rue St Catherine – Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street, students, trendy bars and brasseries galore. For high-end boutiques head to the ’Triangle’ where I snagged an au courant hat that draws endless compliments. Bordeaux truly captures the essence of French living.
The Water Mirror, the world’s largest reflecting pool, dazzles at night with golden hues from the illuminated buildings surrounding the Place de la Bourse. Food lovers like moi will delight in the colorful neighborhood street markets where locals do their daily shopping. Farm fresh chickens, duck, seafood, just baked breads and all varieties of charcuterie, cheese, fruits, vegetables and tantalizing pastries are on display. Don’t miss the estimable Les Capucins market in the Saint-Michel/Victoire area where many come for the luscious oysters alone. Sipping a vin rouge at the elegant Grand Hotel de Bordeaux’s outdoor terrace on the city’s most beautiful square facing the architectural masterpiece – the Grand Theatre - offered the ultimate Bordelais experience
Saint-Emilion – Medieval Hilltop Town
Renting a car is the best way to travel through the bucolic countryside and take in the sites. Just northeast of Bordeaux city, Saint-Emilion, widely known as a prestigious Bordeaux appellation, is a beguiling medieval hilltop town with an intriguing history. Its founding father, a Benedictine monk named Emilion, was an 8th century Jean Valjean of Les Miserables fame. He stole his master’s bread for the poor and at the moment he was caught it miraculously transformed into wood so he would not be punished. He subsequently dedicated his life to worship. Although not officially canonized, the people regard Emilion as a true saint.
I could not help but feel a mysterious aura as I sauntered the sloping ancient cobbled streets from the hilltop perch to the bottom of the cliff. Viewing the rapturous frescoes in the subterranean monolithic church, sitting on the stone prayer chair, meandering the catacombs and experiencing Emilion’s serene underground meditation refuge, I felt as if I was journeying back in time. Afterward, I walked along the original city walls built to protect this town made rich by pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela. Today, wine cellars, restaurants, art galleries and artisanal shops like Domaine Fomiliol Gouzilh showcasing decadent delectables like truffled brie and caviar line the medieval limestone streets quarried centuries ago.
Le Vieux Logis – Rustic Chic
Heading east along the Dordogne River to the quaint village of Tremolat I passed golden vineyards, chateaux and sheep farms. I overnighted in a delightful country cottage Le Vieux Logis, set among beautiful gardens. Nestled in the heart of the Black Périgord area with both a gastronomic restaurant and an excellent bistro serving up sublime duck, this Relais & Chateaux gem delivered a perfect French rustic chic experience. After dinner an evening stroll around the peaceful hamlet felt idyllic.
Sarlat – Ancient Gem
The ancient town of Sarlat, also in the Dordogne deserves a visit. The amazingly well preserved architecture makes it seem like time has stood still here since the Middle Ages. I wandered the medieval town and its narrow alleyways, passing “nobility towers” that the well to-do built centuries ago to connect houses as a way to demonstrate their wealth, historic stone buildings with grey slate roofs and scenic Place de la Liberation, the main square. The central Sainte-Marie Church hosts a famed indoor food market. Sarlat has become a gastronomic centre particularly known for its foie gras sold in many stores to the delight of visiting gourmands. A lunch of strawberry soup plus veal with black truffles and Bordeaux wine at the excellent Les Jardins d’Harmony did not disappoint.
Font de Gaume – Prehistoric Cave Art
Dordogne is widely renowned for its prehistoric heritage. Font de Gaume in the town of Les Eyzies is one of the rare caves housing painted and engraved animal figurines, more than two hundred, dating back to 15,000 BC that is still open to the public. Reindeer mating dances painted with fine details as well as horses, mammoths, oxen, rhinoceros and human hand prints done in natural pigments of black, red and brown decorate the cave walls. In the bison chamber a group of these majestic animals adorn what looks to be a sacred chapel venerating their beauty and stature. As my guide held a flickering light the figures appeared deeper, as if alive, in motion and in 3 dimension. The actual shape of the rock walls combines with the paint to produce this ingenious effect.
Not a lot is known about this prehistoric art with many undecipherable symbols. What is known: These cavemen were masters who drew with perspective, and used brushes and blew pigment through straws to paint by the light of oil lamps. The paintings which have aspects of sculpture demonstrate that prehistoric man was creative, imaginative, had a profound respect for these animals and a brain similar to modern man. Being in the presence of this art from the time pre-historic people walked the earth was a mystical and moving experience. No one knows how long this Paleolithic sanctuary will continue to receive visitors; this is reason enough to go now.
Lascaux 2 Cave – Sistine Chapel of Prehistory
Also impressive was a visit to the Lascaux 2 cave in the village of Montignac-sur-Vezere. The original Lascaux, discovered in 1940 showcased such a wealth of paintings dating over 17,000 years ago, it was named ’the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory’. The crowds disturbed the ecological balance of the cave, degrading the paintings. In a feat of wizardry, scientists and artists reproduced the prehistoric art masterpieces in finest detail, housed in an underground chamber on the same hill as the original. The enormous interest in the Lascaux cave has led to ’The International Center For Cave Art, ’ a high tech multi media center featuring a replica of the original cave opening this year.
Josephine Baker’s Chateau Des Milandes
A must see is the Chateau des Milandes in the town of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle on the left bank of the Dordogne, former home of legendary entertainer Josephine Baker. Here I received a great history lesson about a poor African-American woman from St. Louis who moved to Paris, became a star of the Follies Bergere and the toast of the town. Long before Angelina Jolie, she adopted a dozen children from different nations, named The Rainbow Tribe, and brought them to her beloved French chateau. Her energy infuses every room of this 24-room castle perched atop a hill with gargoyles, turrets, stained-glass windows and a grand circular staircase.
Among the displays are her glamorous costumes, most notably the sensational banana belt from her famous dance at the ’Folies Bergère,’ haute designer dresses, film clips, posters from her revues and her flamboyant bathroom done in the colors of Arpège, her favorite perfume: black walls, gold-plated fixtures and a gold leaf ceiling. You can also hear some recordings of her singing during the guided tour of the chateau.
What struck me was how multifaceted this extraordinary woman was. She refused to perform for segregated audiences in the United States and contributed to the Civil Rights Movement evidenced by photographs of her with Martin Luther King Jr. and at the 1963 March on Washington. Upon seeing a picture of Ms. Baker in military uniform with medals, I learned that she operated as a secret agent like Mata Hari, assisting the French Resistance in WW Two. She received the distinguished French military honor, the Croix de Guerre, and was made a Chevalier of the Légion d’honneur, the country’s highest decoration by General Charles de Gaulle.
The enormous and well equipped kitchen contained every utensil including her huge crock pot. Photos of the adoring mother cooking and smiling with her children beside her were scattered throughout the castle. I paused at the oversize dining table where every Christmas children from the village were invited to join the family and went home with presents. The entire experience was quite emotional; it felt as if Josephine Baker was still there.
Les Pres d’Eugenie - Regal Spa Resort
For Bordelaise pampering I headed to the plush Relais & Chateaux spa resort Les Pres d’Eugenie in Landes, named after Empress Eugenie who frequented the fashionable locale with husband Napoleon III in the 1860’s. Many come for master chef/owner Michel Guerard’s revered cuisine. He garnered his ongoing three Michelin stars in 1977 and also invented a lighter, slimming yet very pleasurable way of eating called ’La Cuisine Minceur. ’ With dishes like vanilla soufflé, Champvallon lamb with thyme and creamy risotto of vegetables with shrimps you won’t feel deprived if you choose the weight loss menu. I savored a sumptuous feast of truffles in garden soup and silky duckling breast followed by a hedonistic Queen’s chocolate delicacy paired with fine Bordeaux wine. Guests can also dine at the rustic auberge and the new bistro.
This countryside palace sits on a vast, lushly landscaped estate amid water, rose and herb gardens, and meadows. Guerard’s wife, Christine, lent her aesthete to the design and created an atmosphere as spectacular as her husband’s culinary creations. My light, vibrant suite done in elegant 19th century style with exquisite furnishings made a swanky dwelling.
The thermal spa rounds out the regal experience. An herbal mud bath mixed with mineral rich waters from the nearby thermal springs created a density so buoyant I floated effortlessly in a pool, then emerged relaxed and rejuvenated. Next I entered a lovely room with a fireplace where I indulged in an aromatic massage by an excellent therapist. When finished, I was led to the salon/lounge where, blissed out, I sipped a glass of wine from the Guerards’ vineyard.
Paris
I hopped the cushy Rail Europe train at Bordeaux for a scenic ride through the countryside to Paris. A jaunt in the City of Light seemed like the perfect way to top off my French adventure before flying home. My residence, the 5-star Le Burgundy boutique hotel, ideally located at the heart of the fashion district and near the Louvre, epitomizes Parisian chic. After taking in the sights, I headed to the hotel’s stylish and romantic Michelin starred ’Le Baudelaire Restaurant. Here, I dined on caviar, venison in red wine sauce and chocolate salted caramel figs with almond ice cream paired with fine Bordeaux wine. Smiling, I thought, there’s so much more to Bordeaux than Bordeaux.
How To Go:
La Compagnie, an all-business-class boutique airline offering spacious seats with a lie flat pitch of 180° has daily flights between New York and Paris without the business class price tag.
For Information on travel in the region contact: The Aquitaine Tourism Board
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