- The Washington Times - Wednesday, August 19, 2009

The fall fashion season has arrived, bringing with it good news and bad. The bad news, for those hampered by the recession, is that “Joan Collins glamour” is back in a big way, but the good news is that you can reinvent and refresh last year’s wardrobe with some easy essentials.

“The overarching theme I see for the season is that question of “Is it vintage or is it new?” explains Harper’s Bazaar executive editor Kristina O’Neill, who monitored the top runways for the fashion bible’s September issue, on stands now. She tells The Washington Times that top designers are “toeing the line” between “timelessness” and “not being too obvious or screaming trendy.” Loulou de la Falaise, the one-time muse of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, has been a source of inspiration for many of the fall collections she has seen.

One of her favorites for fall is the printed dress, which she says is perfect for transitioning from day to evening in “bright, vivid colors.” She advises pairing the print dress with another fall must-have, textured hosiery.

“We’re seeing a lot of colored tights and stockings with Swiss dots or fishnets,” she says.

“A woman can totally remake her wardrobe with patterned hosiery,” concurs Nordstrom fashion director Gregg Andrews. “When the hemlines rise as they do this fall, the focal point is going to be the leg.”

Ms. O’Neill and Mr. Andrews say that when it comes to your stockings and other accessories, purple, among other jewel tones, is the new black. Purple tights. Purple handbags. Purple jewelry.

“Rich amethysts to magenta to muted shades of purple are everywhere,” Mr. Andrews says.

As for evening and the upcoming party season, designer Carmen Marc Valvo, known for his nocturnal creations, says his fall collection is reminiscent of “retro ’50s glamour” but concedes, “This is a time for investment dressing, so there is a lot of black. The black cocktail dress will be everywhere because everything is black-tie-optional now.”

Mr. Valvo expects to see more women in Greco-Roman-inspired gowns this autumn and winter with “asymmetrical, one-shouldered bodices.”

He and Mr. Andrews herald the long-sleeved dress, a trend seen exploding on French runways, a warmer and chic alternative to the typical strapless dresses often seen on the cocktail-party circuit.

“Everybody always asks for them, but the retailers think they look old and dowdy, but with the right proportion, they are very sexy,” Mr. Valvo says.

Adds Mr. Andrews: “Full coverage can be just as alluring and sexy as bare skin.”

Regal capes and capelets will replace traditional overcoats and ponchos as stylish ways to ward off an October chill. Ms. O’Neill says the cape can be worn with jeans, a suit or in the evening, and “you don’t have to worry about it wrinkling your blouse.”

Another key item for men and women will be the military-style jacket, in particular the leather motorcycle-style jacket.

“We are very excited about the motorcycle trend this season,” says Steve Birkhold, chief executive of Diesel, which will move its Georgetown store to the corner of M Street and Wisconsin Avenue Northwest this fall. “Leather has always been and continues to be a strong category for Diesel. In past seasons, Diesel has offered clean, slim silhouettes, but for fall, the leather jacket has taken a military and aviator turn, which falls in line with the motorcycle-jacket trend that is so popular.”

The early Marlon Brando look also can be found on the racks at H&M and the Gap in a variety of fabrics, including wools and cottons.

Of course, no autumn ensemble would be complete without the right footwear, boots in particular.

“The best looks this season are multistrap styles that give a nod to the motorcycle boot but have a high fashion edge, ” says celebrity stylist and Planet Style Concierge founder Colin Megaro.

Mr. Megaro likes a midcalf boot for women by Michael Kors and the Chelsea style for men by John Varvatos.

The classic equestrian riding boot, like those offered by J.C. Penney’s American Living line can be paired with long woolen skirts or pulled on over skinny jeans and matched with a boyfriend cardigan or long sweater.

But celebrity stylist and Yummie Tummie creator Heather Thompson, who will host a party Sept. 9 at Urban Chic on Wisconsin Avenue, says that when it comes to fall boots, women should think creatively and not reserve boots just for daytime looks.

She suggests wearing an ankle boot instead of the traditional stiletto or pump for evening attire: “Sport your ankle boots with tights and a fitted skirt instead of hiding them under pants; this season’s ankle boot is incredibly sexy and versatile.”

• Stephanie Green can be reached at sgreen@washingtontimes.com.

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