Ham and lamb are the meats that spring to mind for Easter dinner, whether it is the date observed by Protestants and Roman Catholics according to the Gregorian calendar or the Sunday observed by Orthodox churches and the Julian calendar. Occasionally these two branches of Christianity celebrate Easter on the same day, as will occur April 4, 2010.
Sunday will be the Orthodox or Greek Easter, when lamb trounces ham as the meat of the day. To observe this Easter, Washington’s Zaytinya restaurant, which specializes in the mezzes or small plates served in Turkey, Greece and Lebanon, again celebrates with its Greek Easter Festival through April 26.
Uber-chef Jose Andres’ culinary team, led by Zaytinya chef Mike Isabella, is offering traditional dishes such as a whole spring lamb carved tableside, with oregano potatoes and ladolemono, a lemon sauce; rack of lamb with smoked yogurt, lemon-olive crumbs and a cucumber-verbena sauce; and, a typical speciality dish served in the Peloponnesus area, a whole roasted leg of lamb with wine, garlic and allspice, served with Greek-style couscous with tomato and cinnamon.
Diners also can expect other treats: crispy lamb sweetbreads, anise-dusted micro fennel greens, baby fennel, black olive oil, spring lamb stew and lamb tongue. The special Greek Easter dishes are priced from $9 to $12.
Zaytinya, 701 Ninth St. NW, also is offering tsoureki, Greece’s traditional braided Easter bread flavored with lemon, orange, mastic and other seasonings. Orders for tsoureki must be placed 48 hours in advance by calling 202/638-0800.
Mr. Isabella also provides a recipe for fingerling potatoes to be served with the lamb and a lemon sauce.
Because lamb is not just for Easter and gets different preparations around the world, we have a recipe from chef Vikram Sunderam at Washington’s Rasika restaurant, 633 D St. NW.
Mr. Sunderam’s expertise has led to canning three popular Rasika curry sauces - mahkani, Goan and Kashmiri - that are available at the restaurant and at the Bombay Club restaurant, 815 Connecticut Ave. NW. A recipe card comes with each bottle of sauce. They can be ordered and shipped by calling Rasika, 202/637-1222.
Greek leg of lamb
This Greek-style leg of lamb is drizzled with ladolemono, a Greek lemon sauce. The recipe is from Mr. Isabella at Zaytinya.
Makes 8 servings.
6-pound leg of lamb, deboned and tied
For the marinade:
1/2 cup dried oregano
1/2 cup fresh thyme
1/2 cup garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 cup fresh rosemary
1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
4 tablespoons salt
For the ladolemono:
1 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups olive oil
2 tablespoons salt
1/2 tablespoon honey
Dry oregano, for garnish
In a bowl, combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Brush the marinade all over the lamb and let it sit overnight.
Bring lamb to room temperature and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Place the lamb in a Dutch oven or any other appropriate roasting vessel and roast for 45 minutes to an hour, occasionally basting with the leftover marinade. The lamb should reach an internal temperature of 125 degrees for medium rare.
Remove the lamb from the oven and let it sit 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature.
While the lamb is resting, prepare the ladolemono by combining all the ingredients in a bowl. Slowly whisk in the oil until a slightly thick texture has been achieved.
Carve the lamb and drizzle with ladolemono. Garnish with dry oregano.
Greek-style fingerling potatoes
Makes four servings.
1 pound fingerling potatoes
Water, as needed
Salt, as needed
1 cup black peppercorns, wrapped and tied in cheesecloth
Greek olive oil, as needed
Zest of 2 lemons
3 tablespoons dried oregano
Greek extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Wash the fingerling potatoes well in cold water.
Place the potatoes in a rondeau (a short version of a stew pot) or a Dutch oven and fill with cold water. Make sure the water is at least 3 inches above the potatoes.
Season the water well with salt and place the black peppercorn sachet in the pot. Bring water to a simmer and cook potatoes very slowly until just tender, about 45 minutes to an hour.
Remove the fingerlings from the water and shock them in ice water. Once they’re cool, cut the potatoes in half lengthwise.
To serve, heat olive oil in a nonstick pan until just smoking. Add the potatoes, flesh side down, and cook for 1 minute. Turn and cook for 30 seconds more, then remove from the pan.
Season the potatoes immediately with lemon zest, dry oregano, salt and olive oil. Serve warm.
Salli boti (lamb with apricots and straw potatoes)
This Rasika recipe makes 4 servings.
1/2 cup oil
4 whole green cardamoms
1 cinnamon stick
4 cloves
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 bay leaves
1 pound sliced onions
1 tablespoon minced ginger root
1 tablespoon garlic flakes
8 ounces fresh tomatoes
1 teaspoon red chili powder
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 tablespoon coriander powder
1/2 cup yogurt
1 pound boneless leg of lamb cut into 1-inch cubes
1/4 ounce fresh curry leaves
2 tablespoons brown malt vinegar
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon sugar
1/3 cup dried apricots, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon garam masala powder
Salt, to taste
STRAW POTATOES:
4 large Idaho potatoes
Oil for deep-frying
Heat the oil in a thick bottom pot; when hot add the whole spices and let them crackle, but do not burn.
Add the sliced onions and saute until golden brown.
Make a fine paste with the ginger and garlic, using as little water as required; add to the onions and saute until the raw flavor of ginger and garlic is gone.
Chop the fresh tomatoes; add to the pot along with the powdered turmeric and saute well until the tomatoes become saucelike. Add the red chili powder and coriander powder, mix well and saute for 2 minutes.
Whisk the yogurt, mix well with the spices and cook until the oil starts to separate. Add the lamb along with the curry leaves, cover the pot with the lid, reduce the heat and let it simmer.
When the lamb is half-cooked - in about 20 minutes - add the tomato paste, vinegar and sugar. Add the dried apricots and the garam masala powder to the lamb when it is soft and tender. Add salt to taste. Serve hot, topped with the straw potatoes.
For the straw potatoes: Cut the potatoes lengthwise into thin straws; this is easily done on a mandoline.
Soak the potato straws in water for 30 minutes, then drain, pat dry and deep-fry until crisp and golden. Add salt to taste and serve with the lamb.
Please read our comment policy before commenting.